functionals

FUNCTIONALS - The Heart of Cosmetic Formulations

Since antiquity, emulsions are used by people without them really knowing it. Cleopatra used to bathe with donkey milk that represents the first natural emulsion of lipids in water. Already in the 2nd century the idea of the cold cream was born. Claudius Galenus, a famous Greek doctor, made the ceratum refrigerans by mixing oil and water with beeswax for skin treatment. In the year 1911 the new emulsifier Eucerit® enabled the first industrial production of a stable W/O emulsion – NIVEA Creme. Since then, cosmetic formulations are increasingly sophisticated with more and more specific cosmetic ingredients to innovate and improve the texture and skin feeling.

  

EMOLLIENTS – Provide Softness and Sensorial Highlights

 

Today consumers of cosmetic products are looking for non-sticky and non-greasy skin care products to get or maintain a smooth and supple skin. They want to have cosmetics that quickly absorb and do not leave traces.

Emollients are well known to play an important role for the sensorial profile of an emulsion. The emollients in modern cosmetic products are characterized by their smoothing and softening effects of the skin.

Depending on parameters like spreadability, polarity, viscosity and volatility, the skin feel of an emulsion can be adapted.

Discover the range of Symrise emollients!

 

 Emollients chart

 

 

SymMollient® PDCC – For Modern Formulation Concepts

INCI: Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate

  • Fully based on renewable sources
  • Leaves a light, dry, non-oily smooth and silky skin feeling
  • Reduces the tackiness of formulations
  • Low viscosity, low oiliness and easily absorbing
  • Excellent solubilizer for oil-soluble UV filters
  • Very good wetting and suspending agent for water-insoluble powders
  • Colorless to light yellow clear liquid, faintly fatty odor
  • Oil-soluble

Discover SymMollient® PDCC

 

 

Dragoxat® 89 – The Right Choice for Light Skin Care Concepts

INCI: Ethylhexyl Isononanoate

  • Makes skin soft, smooth and supple
  • Shows excellent spreadability
  • Promotes silicone-like touch on the skin
  • Provides unique dry initial feel during rub-in
  • Leaves no film on the skin
  • Helps to reduce tackiness of formulations
  • Colorless clear liquid, neutral odor
  • Oil-soluble
  • China compliant

 

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Isodragol® – Light Viscous Emollient Providing Softening and Caring Effects in Skin and Lip Care

INCI: Triisononanoin

  • Ester oil providing skin care products with a luxury skin feel
  • Due to its viscosity it comes with a perceivable cushion effect and a prolonged play time on the skin and with this imparts body or skin caring oils with a premium skin feeling
  • Low surface tension leads to outstanding wetting properties for pigments
  • Gives a better pay-off (color deposition) to lipstick formulation without compromising stability at elevated temperatures
  • Colorless to pale yellow clear liquid
  • Oil-soluble
  • China compliant (IECIC)

 

Try out Isodragol® and order your sample today 

 

 

PCL-Liquid® / PCL-Liquid®100 – Bioinspired Ester Oils Particularly Designed for Skin Protection

INCI (PCL-Liquid®): Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isopropyl Myristate
INCI (PCL-Liquid® 100): Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

  • Nature-inspired compound
  • Makes skin soft, smooth and supple
  • Helps skin to maintain its natural equilibrium
  • Spreads quickly on skin and has strong film forming effect without being occlusive
  • Does not inhibit the natural skin respiration
  • Does not leave a sticky or greasy skin feeling
  • Maintains natural moisture content of the skin
  • Mimics composition of natural preen-gland oil but is of course not animal derived
  • Its low variation of viscosity with temperature makes it particularly suitable for w/o emulsions
  • Colorless clear liquid
  • Oil-soluble
  • China compliant (IECIC)

 

Take a closer look at our longstanding and successful PCL-Liquid® products

 

 

Isoadipate – Perfect Emollient for Alcohol Water Solutions

INCI: Diisopropyl Adipate

  • Provides pleasant soft and non-greasy skin feel 
  • Particularly suitable for soft skin care products
  • Excellent compatibility with hydroalcoholic systems
  • Reduces dryness of alcohol based formulations
  • Usable as softener in nail polish and hair sprays
  • High solubilizing capability for oil-soluble UV-Filters
  • Colorless clear liquid
  • Oil-soluble
  • China compliant

 

Learn more  about Isoadipate

 

 

PCL-Solid – A Reliable Emollient with Valuable Caring Properties

INCI: Stearyl Heptanoate, Stearyl Caprylate 

  • Gives emulsions a pleasant consistency and helps to increase their stability
  • Melts slightly above skin temperature
  • Creates a soft, pleasant, smooth skin feel
  • Enhances the caring characteristic of formulations
  • Colorless waxy solid
  • Oil-soluble
  • China compliant

 

Get your sample of PCL-Solid now

 

 

SymMollient® S – A Saturated Wax Ester with Silicone-Like Skin Feel

INCI: Cetearyl Nonanoate

  • Melts at skin temperature and creates silky, non-oily skin feel
  • Leaves dry, silicone-like touch on the skin
  • In-vivo data prove significant moisturization and hydration effect
  • Improves skin feel of pigments in sun care formulations and reduces their whitening effect
  • Prevents breakage in stick formulation
  • Used in bar soaps it reduces cracking and improves skin feel and lather
  • Colorless liquid to solid product
  • Oil-soluble

 

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Corapan® TQ –Photostabilizer and Multifunctional Emollient

INCI: Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate

  • Confers photostability to the UVA-filter Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Neo Heliopan® 357)
  • Excellent solvent for oil soluble, solid UV-filters,e.g. Neo Heliopan® 357: 15% in Corapan® TQ
  • Improves the SPF of suncare formulations
  • Unique emollient properties
  • Colorless to light yellow clear viscous liquid
  • Oil-soluble
  • Food grade status for application in lip care stick
  • China compliant

 

Try out Corapan® TQ in your formulation and get more info and your sample now 

 

 

HYDROPHILIC EMOLLIENT – SymMollient® W/S

 

The frequent exposure of skin and scalp to surfactant products could lead to undesired side effects like dehydrated dry skin. Defatting deteriorates the lipid skin barrier with rough scaling, red and itching skin as a result. SymMollient® W/S helps efficiently to protect the skin.

 

SymMollient® W/S – Hydrophilic Emollient With Versatile Properties Beyond Skin Feeling

INCI: Trideceth-9, PEG-5 Isononanoate, Water (Aqua)
 
  • Hydrophilic emollient for shampoos, shower and bath preparations
  • Acts soothing on scalp or skin
  • Improves the skin tolerance of surfactants
  • Provides pleasant sensory feeling and skin mildness not only immediately during cleansing, but also in the long term
  • Improves suppleness of the skin by preserving its lipid content (refatting effect)
  • Regulates moisture content of the skin (anti-dehydrating effect)
  • Imparts creamy foam to surfactant preparations
  • Supports solubilization of oils and oil-soluble ingredients in cosmetic formulations (e.g. fragrances, Frescolat® ML)
  • Colorless to light yellow clear liquid
  • Water-soluble

 

Get all the details and your sample from SymMollient® W/S in SymSelect

 

EMULSIFIERS – Guarantee Stable Formulations and Pleasant Skin Feel

 

Emulsifiers not only mediate between oil and water and ensure stability of emulsions. They also contribute significantly to the sensorial profile. By changing the emulsifier one can tailor attributes like texture, appearance, pick-up and the distribution of an emulsion. All these attributes have an impact especially on the initial skin feel.

 

Emulsifiers chart

 

 

Emulsiphos® – When Mildness Matters

INCI: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides 

  • Based on vegetable, renewable feedstock
  • Can be used for thin fluid formulations, but also for soft creams
  • Works also as a co-emulsifier at low dosages (0.2 – 0.5%)
  • Pelletized form makes it easy to handle
  • The combination with a plant based lipid component facilitates the ability of dispersion, both in the oil or aqueous phase and inhibits foam formation (compared to sole Potassium Cetyl Phosphate)
  • Bioinspired molecular structure promotes the ability to form liquid crystalline structures similar to skin lipids
  • Clinically proven skin compatibility makes it particularly suitable for sensitive skin
  • Provides even challenging formulations (e.g. high SPF sun care) with an appealing skin feeling
  • White to beige pellets or flakes
  • Oil-soluble, water-mixable
  • COSMOS/Ecocert approved
  • China compliant

 

Curious to learn more about Emulsiphos®? Login to SymSelect for more details

 

 

Dracorin® CE – A Food Approved Emulsifier

INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 

  • 100% based on vegetable, renewable feedstock
  • Powerful anionic O/W emulsifier and co-emulsifier
  • Pellet form guarantees easy handling and no dust formation in production
  • Particularly suitable for emulsification of polar oils
  • Exhibits best emulsifying performance at slightly acidic pH (well corresponding to the natural pH of human skin)
  • Improves the consistency of the formulation
  • Excellent skin and eye compatibility
  • Established food emulsifier
  • White to beige pellets
  • Oil-soluble
  • Food grade
  • COSMOS/Ecocert approved
  • China compliant

 

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Dracorin® GOC – Designed for Sustainable Use

INCI: Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

  • 100% based on vegetable, renewable feedstock
  • Easy to process because of its liquid form
  • Effective at low dosage levels
  • Beside conventional emulsification, cold/cold or hot/cold processing is possible
  • Has excellent capability to build cold/cold processed O/W emulsions, even without homogenizing
  • Allows also the incorporation of active ingredients and UV filters in significant amounts
  • Acts as natural chelating agent
  • Proven skin tolerability - even for sensitive skin
  • Light yellow to yellow clear to slightly cloudy liquid
  • Oil-soluble, water-mixable
  • Food grade
  • COSMOS/Ecocert approved
  • China compliant

 

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SymSol® PF-3 – A Robust All-Rounder

INCI: Water (Aqua), Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Oleate 

  • Forms thin liquid emulsions to soft lotions when used as sole emulsifier
  • Increases the stability when used as co-emulsifier
  • Promotes formation of small oil droplets
  • Remarkable stability with high contents of pigments (up to 25%)
  • Tolerates high amount of electrolytes
  • Builds stable SPF 50+ sun protection sprays without co-emulsifier
  • Use in cold processes without problems
  • Colorless to yellow clear liquid
  • Soluble in alcohol, glycol and water

 

Browse through our entire offering in SymSelect 

 

 

SOLUBILIZERS – Dissolve Solubilizing Issues in Aqueous Based Formulations

 

Seeking for clarity can become a challenge when formulating aqueous or hydroalcoholic products. Providing the right amount of caring to those products requires the use of solubilizing agents. Our deliberately composed blends offer easy solutions for many different solubilizing tasks.

 

Solubilizer – Easy Solubilization of Hydrophobic Substances

INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Propylene Glycol, Water (Aqua)

  • Solubilizes perfume oils, essential oils and other hydrophobic substances (e.g. Dragosantol®, Farnesol, oil-soluble vitamins) in pure aqueous and hydroalcoholic systems
  • Can be used over a broad pH range (pH 3-11)
  • Low quantities required
  • Easy to process
  • Low foam formation
  • Low tackiness 
  • Colorless to pale yellow clear or cloudy liquid
  • Soluble in alcohol, glycol, oil and water
  • China compliant

 

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SymSol® PF-3 – Solubilizing Without PEG - Mission Possible

INCI: Water (Aqua), Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Oleate 

  • PEG free solubilizer for fragrances or botanical oils in aqueous systems
  • Excellent choice for micellar cleansing concepts due to its low critical micelle concentration (cmc)
  • Leaves no tacky skin feel
  • Colorless to yellow clear liquid
  • Soluble in alcohol, glycol and water

 

Discover SymSol® PF-3 and our entire portfolio of cosmetic ingredients in SymSelect